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Picked up the Lemond Zurich frameset

Got to Duane’s a little early on Sunday, but he was waiting and had the frame ready to go. It looks just great with a fresh coat of clear over everything.  The candy blue was tricky to match, but Duane did a great job and the touchups are very difficult to find.  I’ll have to do a good job with the build to match the frameset.

Got the frameset home today, but I won’t get to it right away.  I’m in the middle of overhauling the Cannondale ST600, so I really need to finish that one up first.  it’s still in pieces, and I got the freewheel removal tool I needed and removed the freewheel.  I’m sending it off to the freewheel spa for a service, and while it’s away I’ll get the wheel bearings and hubs cleaned and regreased.  Then I can true the wheels and install the new tubes and tires.  Once the freewheel is back that will be the wheels complete.

Sounds like progress, slow but relentless (emphasis on slow).

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Picking up the Lemond Zurich frame

I’m going to pick up the Lemond Zurich frame that has been touched up by Duane at ChesterCycles.com.  He has done this work for me on other frames and his work is superb.  I can’t wait to see it, and more so, I can’t wait to begin building this bike.

The frame is on the receiving end of a Campagnolo Chorus 3×10 group, all silver, which should work well and look great at the same time.  I really like the older Campy groups, the polished alloy parts in particular, and the fact that Campy is not as common as the more ubiquitous Shimano hardware.  All of the modern groups work quite well, and can even be mixed and matched to some degree and retain a high level of performance.  I just like Campy more, so that’s what I chose.  I’m not anti-Shimano or SRAM, I’m just pro-Campy.  I did just install a Shimano 1×11 drivetrain on my Giant XTC, so I don’t always choose Campy.  The right tool for the job, you know.

I think I have all of the components I need for the build, but as my past history shows, there will be something (or things) that I need but don’t have.  OK, I need handlebar tape.  So history does repeat itself.  But it can be ridden without that, so it isn’t a critical-path item.  That’s my rationalization for today and I’m sticking with it.

Stay tuned for photos as this frame becomes a bicycle.

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ST600 project – need some replacement parts as usual

Remember my comment about not expecting any issues?  Apparently my expectations weren’t rooted in reality.

My plan to just service the existing bottom bracket ins’t going to work.  While I was cleaning the old grease off the bearings and retainers, I noticed that some of the balls had deep scratches in them and there was some rust on the retainers.  Crap.  So the drive-side cup had to come off, because I’m going to replace the BB with a new cartridge unit.  Doesn’t make sense to complete the build only to have to replace the BB in a couple of months, when it is much easier to do that now.

So I used a threaded rod with two fender washers and two nuts to clamp the adjustable wrench against the flats, and 2 minutes later the DS cup was off.  The spindle was 121mm long, and was asymmetric, with the DS being longer than the NDS.  I searched around for a while trying to confirm that the UN55 BB was or wasn’t asymmetrical, and finally was able to confirm that the 122mm spindle length has an asymmetric spindle.  Ordered the new BB, so that should solve the problem.  I think I have the correct tool for this BB, but that remains to be confirmed.

The replacement chain is here, the new BB should be here Monday, as should the freewheel tool.  Then I can remove the freewheel and send it off for a day at the freewheel spa.

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Continuing the ST600 overhaul

Continuing on with the process, I decided to push out a pin and remove the chain.  It is 116 links long, so I need to be sure that the replacement is at least that long.  A lot of chains now being sold contain only 114 links, so I need to be sure that it will be long enough for a touring bike with long chainstays and a 3×6 drivetrain.

With the chain off, the FD/RD came off next.  The cranks were tight, but the puller removed them cleanly.  I don’t think they could have been removed without it – at least not without damaging something.  The NDS (left side) ring and cup came off easily, and the axle and both bearings came right out.  The DS (right side) cup is really tight, and I may just clean it in place and leave it alone.

So now that the frame has everything removed, it’s time to polish and wax it.  Actually I’ll clean up the DS cup first so that I won’t get any solvent on freshly waxed paint and then polish and wax the frame and fork.

Then it’s time to start reassembly.  The BB will be first, then the headset and fork.

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Biking accessories

I thought I’d talk about some cycling accessories that I actually use, instead of the “gimmicks” that seem to be hawked these days. I’ve got a Garmin Edge 705 cycling gps that works really well. It has a color screen, and you can customize the display page to include what you want to see while riding. It’s a nice package. Of course, if you just want to record a track while riding, just hit the start button and put it in your pocket. Either way, don’t forget to hit the stop button when you’re done. I’ve forgotten that more than once. Maybe it was twice, I can’t remember.

The RideWithGPS website works very well to manage your courses and ride history, and speaks Garmin very well. You can easily plan, edit, and export routes (courses in Garminspeak), and upload history from your rides. You can also turn a ride into a route, if you want to share it with cycling friends. If you opt for one of the subscription plans, you can add advance notification of turns to the exported file.

Back on the 705, you can easily upload routes to the “Courses” directory (as a file with a “.tcx” extension). and download the results from the “History” directory, also with a “.tcx” extension. You can then upload the .tcx file to RideWithGPS to look at average speed, cadence, distance, and climbing/descending info. It also shows the gradient, but I can’t speak to the accuracy of that info.

I use OpenStreetMaps on my 705, and they work very well. There’s no need to pay the “Garmin Tax” and buy one of their maps. You can select the areas you want, and download them. Uploading the map file (gmapsupp.img) is simple enough. If you use these maps, please support this worthwhile project.

if you want a tutorial on using OpenStreetMaps on your Garmin device, go to DCRainMaker’s website and follow the directions. It is literally as simple as he says. Additionally, his site is a great resource for bicycling information and product reviews in general – it’s well worth the time to read.

If you are looking for turn-by-turn navigation, cadence, speed, and other information, the Garmin 705 is a good choice. Since it isn’t the latest and greatest unit out there, the prices are very reasonable – around $100 give or take, usually including mount and speed/cadence sensor.

Compared with the $1000+ units, the Edge 705 is a very smart choice if it’s functionality meets your needs. If you want the latest gee-whiz bells and whistles, then I guess you’ll have to pay for that.

if you have questions about working with routes and ride results, or using OpenStreetMaps on your 705, drop me a note and I’ll try to help.

UPDATE: I ordered a GUB GPS mount off ebay for my 705, and it fits and works really well. It clamps on the handlebar next to the stem, and has a gopro-style mount underneath for a camera or a light. A nice, functional accessory.

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First ride on the newly rebuilt XTC

The weather was cooperative, no pressing chores at home, so it’s time to ride.  Put the XTC in the back of the truck and headed over to Land Between the Lakes (LBL) to ride the Central Hardwoods Trail.  Heading westward to Kentucky Lake and back is a little over 8 miles, with about 700 feet of climbing thrown in for fun.

The bike worked well, but the headset did work loose so I re-adjusted the preload and it was fine.  Not really a surprise with newly installed headset cups.  I tilted the brake levers and the shifter down a little so that my wrists are straighter and that position felt better.

Since it didn’t happen without photos, here you go (from the halfway point at Kentucky Lake).

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Starting on the ST600

This one should be fairly quick to service, but you never know for sure until you’re done.  First will be to remove the wheels, take the tires and tubes off, and take the hubs apart.  Some cleaning, fresh grease, and some adjustment should take care of them.  The rear wheel needs to be trued, and I’ll check the front wheel before installing new tubes and tires.  I probably should service the freewheel while I’m at it.

While the wheels are off, I removed the brake calipers (they’re going to be replaced with new dual-pivot units), stem and handlebars, then the front fork.  The headset has rubber seals for the upper and lower bearings, a nice touch.  I already know the headset is out of adjustment but I don’t know if it was ridden that way.  After cleaning up the fork and crown races, it does look like it was ridden with a loose headset.  I’m going to try and salvage the headset.  If it can’t be adjusted properly or won’t hold an adjustment, then I’ll have to replace it.

The rear rack, seatpost and saddle have been removed.  next are the FD and RD, then the cranks come off.  Hopefully I have the right tool to remove the BB, but I don’t know just yet.

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The XTC is finished

Dave at the shop tightened the BB, but that didn’t address the chain coming off the chainring.  He said that it was probably the chain, and that Shimano 1×11 drivetrains with wide-narrow chainrings are picky about the chain.  I was a little skeptical about that, but he convinced me to try a Shimano chain, so I gave him the go-ahead.  Surprisingly, I must admit – after swapping the chain, no more derailing up front.  The RD shifted fine, so the chain was the problem.

Installing the grips took just a few minutes with some rubbing alcohol, and that finishes it up.  While I was tightening the saddle clamp, the bolt heads started to round out, so I’ll need to find some replacements.  The saddle is tight for now, but I’d prefer to have bolts that will let me make adjustments as needed.  Maybe I’ll just find a new seatpost and solve the bolt problem at the same time – no real hurry on it.

Took it out for a quick ride between rain showers, and it shifts fine, brakes work great, and the fork is working fine too.  Will tweak the saddle height and tilt a little, but the bike is finished.  May play around with the tilt of the brake and shift levers too, to get them lined up properly now that it’s rideable.

With some help from a Bike Forums member, I found out that this is a 2003 Giant XTC 2.  Not required knowledge, but nice to know nonetheless.

Here are some photos.

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XTC reassembly continued

Decided to Install the BB and crankset hand-tight to check the chainline.

Brake calipers are on but not aligned or tightened.  Brake levers and the shifter are on the handlebars.  Rear derailleur is installed.

The seatpost clamp bolt is soaking in evaporust.  The Fizik saddle is loosely clamped in the seatpost and it is installed but not clamped in the frame.

Seatpost clamp bolt looks much better, installed and clamped.  Chain installed, shortened chain to fit.  Might be one link too long, but that’s OK as is for now.

Derailleur cable and housing run.  Adjusted the derailleur cable tension and hi/low limits.  My first 11 speed derailleur, and Shimano too.  This one has a clutch that is supposed to help the chain stay tighter and not bounce as much in rough terrain – we’ll see how that works.

The chain wants to derail off the chainring.  Maybe because there isn’t much tension on the chain while on the workstand, I guess riding will tell the tale.  Can’t do that until the BB is tightened properly.

I’ve never installed or adjusted disk brakes on a bicycle, but it went well.  The front and rear housings/cables are run and the brakes adjusted.  They work well, on the workstand at least.

The grips aren’t here yet, but I can ride it without grips to check everything out.  I’ll be using the pedals that were originally on the bike, so no changes there.

After getting the BB tightened, the maiden voyage will happen fairly quickly.  it looks like the XTC will be ready to go for the Bourbon and Tobacco Tour ride after all.

Photos to come soon, once I have a complete bike to photograph.

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Going over the 1989 Cannondale ST600

This bike was treated very well by it’s original owner, kept indoors and not left to rot outside as so many bikes unfortunately are.  Because of that, there isn’t any corrosion to worry about.  Mainly the consumables like grease, tires/tubes, and brake/shift cables will be replaced.  I will probably just clean up the chain and use it, it doesn’t look like it has seen too many miles.

Replacing the consumables should be fairly straightforward and since the bike is in very good shape I’m not expecting any surprises along the way.  You never know, but the odds are ever in my favor.

I’m going to upgrade the brakes and levers to more modern ones, as the braking is just so-so.  The calipers will be swapped out for Tektro R539 dual-pivot units front and rear, and the levers will be swapped for TSP RRL drilled alloy levers.  Other than that, my plan is to service the rest of the bike and leave it pretty much as-is.

I haven’t decided whether or not to replace the saddle – saddles are a personal thing and every butt is different.

I have a nice Acorn handlebar bag that would fit nicely with this bike, so I plan to use it.  It came with a Blackburn rear rack but I haven’t decided if it will stay or not.

It does somehow seem odd to refer to a Cannondale as a vintage bike, but since this one is 29 years old, I think it qualifies.