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BMW reassembly begins…

The rear shock is back from Jay at Sasquatch, so now I can begin the reassembly process. Previously, I had cleaned and relubed all the bearings in the swingarm and the suspension link, so now it’s just a matter of reassembling everything and making sure that all of the bolts and parts are in their respective places. It went pretty quickly, but BMW needs to take a lesson from KTM. I lost count of the number of wrenches and sockets needed to put this back together. KTM has obviously spent some time on the fasteners and the number of different sizes is minimal compared with the BMW. This means that a larger (and heavier) tool kit is necessary to perform the same maintenance as the KTM. It may not be terribly important when on an asphalt trip, but in the sticks it may be a matter of walking vs riding.

I got the wheel bearings (all six of them, front and rear) from a bearing store and saved a lot of money (the BMW tax). I needed seals too, so I ordered them through my local NAPA store. Took two days and cost less than half of the BMW price.

The rear wheel and sprocket carrier bearings are replaced, along with the seals, so the rear wheel is ready to be reinstalled. There is a spacer on the sprocket carrier side that has some grooves worn in it so I will order a replacement and see if any spacers on the front wheel need replacement. No sense using an old, worn spacer with new seals.

Next is the front wheel bearings and seals, then I’m installing Racetech gold valves and new springs in the forks. They’ll get fresh fluid and will be ready to go. While I’m in there I’ll replace the stem bearings and races and that should wrap up the mechanical service and upgrades on the bike.

Oops, forgot about the exhaust. I picked up a set of stainless Supertrapp mufflers, but I need to have a pipe bent to connect the header to the muffler.

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Maintenance on the F650

While I’m waiting on the fork parts to arrive, I’m finishing up the going-over-the-whole-bike-front-to-back job. There are a couple of stripped screws, but those are easily fixed.

The OEM bash plate is basically a weed guard, because it certainly isn’t a rock guard. Even small rocks would defeat it, as would some tough weeds but I’ll give it the benefit of the doubt. I’ve ordered the Touratech bash plate and also the adjustable, folding shift lever and the folding brake lever. I will probably put the original levers in the spares kit.

I began taking the rear suspension apart, mainly so that I could extract the rear shock. That actually wasn’t too difficult a task, but once I got a good look around I decided the automatic oiler had to go. There is a layer of dirt and dust held together by ATF that is nasty and hard to remove. Pulling the front sprocket cover showed another problem – the front sprocket is badly hooked. I’ve ordered front and rear JT sprockets and a DID o-ring chain to fix this. I’ll hang onto the chain and the rear sprocket in case some ADVer needs it.

Cleaning the gunk off the drive side and underside of the bike is slow but is coming along. I also pulled the swingarm, checked, and relubed the swingarm bearings. I also relubed the bearings in the suspension link.

Because I don’t know how long it will take to get the shock rebuilt, I made a “replacement” shock from a piece of plywood so that the bike can be rolled around the garage in the meantime. Once the suspension is reassembled, I’m going to replace the wheel bearings front and rear. At that point I have some minor electrical work to do and figure out the luggage and the bike is TAT-ready.

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BMW forks – not new ones, anyway

Well, swapping the stock forks for a set of USD forks just isn’t going to work for me. I’ve sold the parts I bought, and they’ve been shipped to South Africa. Nils, ride safely. I decided to install Racetech emulators and springs, new fluid, and button them up.

While I’m working on the forks I will also replace the stem bearings. The BMW bearings are notorious for lasting only about 20k miles and that happens to be the mileage on my bike. Now is a good time to postpone that failure.

While I was concentrating on the forks I hadn’t actually decided what to do about the rear shock. Well, now I have. I’m going to have Jay at Sasquatch Suspension rebuild, revalve, and respring the rear shock. At roughly half the cost of Ohlins or Wilbers shocks, the reviews I read are all positive and he has patiently answered my questions. I ordered the Racetech parts for the forks through him.

So I’m taking a slightly different direction, but still moving forward.

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BMW updates – new forks

In general, the little beemer is in very good shape. I’m looking for more in the suspension department, after riding the KTM that has a first class suspension under it. The most cost-effective way to improve the suspension is to replace the dated damper-rod conventional forks with cartridge-type USD forks from a Yamaha YZ125/250/450. All of these forks from about model year 2000 on are the same mechanically – the difference is in the springs and valving which will be replaced anyway.

Off to ebay to find some parts. A few mouse clicks later we have the necessary parts on their way. A set of 48mm forks from a 2004 YZ250F; a set of triple clamps from the same year and model; a brake caliper from a 2006 YZ450F; a front wheel assembly including wheel, tire, brake rotor, axle, and spacers from a 2008 YX450F – these are the main requirements. There will be some assorted small parts, and the forks will need to be rebuilt, resprung, revalved, and the travel limits set for my bike, but swapping the forks is basically a one-day task. Of course, timelines tend to stretch as more things work their way onto the list. Have you ever heard the phrase “Well, as long as we’re in there we might as well take care of the thingamajig?” That is what makes wrenching on a motorcycle take longer than you’d think.

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BMW updates begin

Well, I’ve started going over the BMW, and there are some items that need attention. Not everyone would think they need attention, but I will be taking this bike to places where help is many miles away and the nearest bike dealer is many, many miles away. I need to know that everything is ready for the trip, and that spares for the most-commonly needed repairs are with me. To do that I need to start at the front and work my way to the back.

I’ve just ordered a tankbag setup from Twisted Throttle. I like their quick-lock tankbags as I had one on my Ducati. Also, I’ve just ordered new brake pads front and rear. The ones on the bike look fine, but better to have replacements even though they’re not immediately needed. If they aren’t needed before the trip, I’ll probably replace them anyway, just so I won’t have to do that on the road. That kind of work is always easier in the garage than at the side of the road.

I am planning to dissect the cigarette adapter for the DeLorme gps and wire a custom jack on the dash. I’ll hide the 12v to 5v electronics behind the dash, then all I need is to connect the gps to the panel jack and it’s ready. I already have some 2 conductor waterproof panel jacks and line plugs, so this should be a fairly simple project. There is already an SAE connector by the top triple, which could be used for a battery tender, an air compressor, or to run 12v into a tankbag. I may not need any other electrical changes. I am considering changing to a lithium battery from Antigravity Batteries as it saves several pounds and allows easier relocation as the battery pack is much smaller than the OEM battery. It’s not cheap but may be a smart choice in the long run.

I will probably toss the Givi hard bags, but keep the Givi rack and use Wolfman Expedition dry bags. The eastern part of the TAT showed me that hard luggage on an off-road bike is not the best choice, at least for me. I think the combination of the tankbag, the cargo plate, and the dry bags will be more than enough storage and tie-down space for the trip. On the western TAT we’ll be camping, so I’ll be taking a tent, sleeping bag and pad, stove, and some food. All of that should strap on the cargo plate without too much trouble.

I’ll probably replace the wheel bearings front and back, and the steering stem bearings too. I’ve read that they typically need replacement at around 20k miles and that’s how many miles are on my F650. Of course, if I wind up swapping front forks, some of that will be unnecessary, but then I’ll need to get the proper rate springs and valving and the necessary adapters to use the BMW wheel with the USD Yamaha forks. Then I’ll need a new rear shock. And then…

As King Theoden of Rohan said before the battle at Helms Deep, “And so it begins…”

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Riding gear update

As you may have read in the TAT post mortem, I need to update my riding gear. Specifically, the jacket and pants.

I was considering a few different jackets; my main criteria is that the jacket shell is waterproof (when the vents are closed) and that a liner can be used for warmth. I don’t want a jacket where the liner is required to make it waterproof. Good ventilation is also a necessity, as is proper protection from impacts and sliding.

The candidates (so far) are:

  • Olympia AST
  • First Gear Kilimanjaro
  • Aerostich Darien Light

I have an Olympia Air Mesh jacket now, and I like it. The things I don’t like are that it’s black and the liner makes it waterproof so the jacket shell soaks through in a downpour. The AST has a waterproof shell and is available in a light color.

The Kilimanjaro seems to have the features I’m looking for, but I’ve not seen one in person so I’ve relied on reviews. I will need to see one before using any of my plastic money.

From all the reviews I’ve read the Darien seems to be the top of the list, unless style is a primary constraint. The fact that the Darien is made in the USA (and can be altered and repaired by the manufacturer) is a huge factor in it’s favor. The time-proven reliability and quality are undeniable.

Pants will be the second part of the equation, and the Darien pants seem to fit the bill as well. I’ll continue to read and ask questions so that, hopefully, I’ll make a good decision and can ride both the road and trail in comfort and safety.

Comments and suggestions are welcome.

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A new GPS

I just purchased a DeLorme PN-60w + SPOT from Amazon.com for $100 less than I have seen elsewhere. I have a fair amount of experience with Garmin GPS units, over the years I’ve had a 2610, 2730, 478, and a Nuvi 760. I’m getting tired of the roadblocks Garmin puts in the way of using the maps that I’ve paid for – and it REALLY irritates me that they would suggest that I need to buy the maps AGAIN to use them on my PC to create routes for the GPS. Exactly how many times do they expect me to buy the same maps? I got around that little problem, but I’m voting with my $ and Garmin lost the election.

I just used the Nuvi on the eastern part of the TAT and it worked very well. In a waterproof bag (as the unit is NOT waterproof) it routed us reliably on the trail. It doesn’t understand tracks at all, but it does keep a tracklog. I wrote a small program to convert a gpx track file to a route, and then the Nuvi can use it. It recalculates the route when it is loaded, but if you use enough trackpoints when defining the original track the route will follow your track exactly. For the money I spent, the Nuvi has worked well.

I have an original SPOT tracker (the orange one) and used it on the trail as there are long stretches without cell coverage and peace of mind for my wife while I’m out riding is a real benefit.

But it was time to move to a unit that really handles tracks well. So I’m waiting for the PN-60w to get here. I just need to swap the SPOT tracker to the SPOT communicator in my SPOT account and it should be ready.

I will have the winter to set up the tracks for NM, CO, UT, NV, and OR. Using it in the truck will let me learn the track and route functions so that I’m familiar with it when spring comes and the trails call.

Stay tuned for the next installment.

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Eastern TAT – post mortem

The short version is that our planning was very good, but some changes will make it even better.

Navigation: Making tracks using the paper maps and then converting them to routes for use in the Nuvis worked very well. No real changes necessary here. It would be better if we could mark the fuel stops so that there was an alert when you are close, but that’s about it.

Tools: We had the tools necessary. John patched a screw hole in his rear tire using the tools he brought. I didn’t have any flats, but I had the necessary tools and the air compressor ready to go. My new username of DirtNap was earned, and the bike’s mirrors survived. The threads loosened just as they should have and there was no damage to the mirrors from any of the naps. It seemed like I was tightening them a lot, but I had the tools and it was nothing more than a minor nuisance.

Luggage: We packed fairly light, but the duffels weren’t light. I would guess 30-40 pounds. Mine included the first aid kit, tool kit, air compressor, spare tube, computer, clothes, toiletries, shoes (sandals and slip-ons), and jacket liner. In the tankbag I had my iphone, camera, earplugs, ipod, earbuds, paper maps, windshield / faceshield cleaner and diaper, eyedrops, charging cables, cable lock, headband flashlight, and tire pressure gauge.

Changes for the next trip:

Luggage / packing: It would definitely help to get the weight down to lower the center of gravity, so I think waterproof soft saddlebags will be the choice for next year. I probably will carry pretty much the same items in the tankbag. We are planning to camp next year, so that adds some items to the list. Tent, sleeping bag, pad, stove, food, and water will have to be carried with us.

Gear: I need to get a better jacket and pants. I wore kevlar-lined jeans and while they may help while sliding they provide no impact protection. I’m considering the Firstgear Kilimanjaro jacket and TPG pants. Regardless of the jacket I select, it definitely won’t be black. My current jacket is waterproof because of the liner, not the exterior shell. That means the jacket shell will be soaking wet in the rain. I would rather that the jacket shell be waterproof and the liner be used for warmth. It just works better on the trail. Same for the pants, a liner for warmth only.

I bought a pair of Aerostich Combat Touring boots before we left, but they needed to be resoled. That’s now done, so my boots are ready to go.

Misc: I’ll add a bottle of ibuprofen and benadryl to the first aid kit. It would be good to have some cotton handkerchiefs on the outside of the packs so that you can wipe your glasses and/or faceshield while riding in the rain (which happens a LOT when I’m riding). Maybe an easy way to attach them so they can dry in the wind would be useful too.

I’ll need to come up with camping gear too.

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TAT day 6 – headed for home

Well, this was unexpected. Went to bed expecting to get up and hit the trail to Braman, Oklahoma but woke up to a line of strong thunderstorms in northern Oklahoma and south-central Kansas moving east. They had dumped a lot of rain directly on the secondary roads we would be on today. Not what we wanted to see. We had a couple of hundred miles to ride to get to Braman, and slogging through mud would make that seem like an insurmountable goal. Since we were going to Braman, just to head home the next day, we took another look at the weather and decided to head for home today. We’ll meet here next year for the ride to the Pacific, instead of meeting in Braman.

John saddled up and headed southeast, I headed northeast on I-44, trying to get ahead of the storm. The storm was tracking roughly parallel to I-44, and I knew that I would turn north after going through St. Louis. If I wasn’t far enough ahead, when I turned north I would get caught and get seriously wet for a while.

I made fairly good time, and came through St. Louis around 3pm, leaving 5 hours or so for the rest of the trip. We had just visited Dave and Lynn in St. Louis, so I was confident in the 5 hour estimate. I stopped for gas in Springfield, and it looked like the rain was beginning to cover my route. Unfortunately, the look was right. I was soaked through until I got north of Champaign. It had changed to a drizzle and then stopped shortly after my last gas stop. I got home around 8pm, after a 12 hour day on the road.

Let’s just say the KTM seat isn’t made for long distance riding, and over 600 miles in a day on the KTM was definitely a long day’s ride. I got home after dark, again not my first choice, but home was a powerful draw. I hadn’t seen my wife Amy for a week and I missed her.

I’m glad to be home and I’m also glad John and I rode the eastern part of the trail. Next year, we’ll be better prepared and likely on different bikes for the western trail.

Stay tuned for the eastern TAT post mortem.

The stats from a long day in the saddle: